Makers’ Minute – Envia Bag

Meet the Envia bag, a Makers’ Mercantile exclusive for all your interchangeable needles and notions! In this video, Katie takes you through the features of this product and the options it is available in!

Product in this video:

Envia Bag

Transcription

I’m Katie Rempe, and this is you Makers’ Minute.

Today I’m introducing you to the Envia Bag. It’s made from 100% genuine leather and it smells delightful. Comes with an adjustable strap, brass finishing, to fit a full-sized Ipad, a pocket on the back, with elastic strap. Has two snap pockets, has three different sections, a pocket over here.

Comes in four different options: Fundamental package will get you bag plus trap, and one vertical and one horizontal insert. Each insert is also lined with suede.

Or, upgrade to the Luxury package and get two horizontal inserts, one vertical insert, and one clear zip bag. Addi needles not included.

Or, upgrade even further, and get an Addi click set of your choosing. Or the Ultimate Luxury Package which includes two click sets of your choice.

Available in both teal and black, and only at Makers’ Mercantile.

HIKOO ZUMIE HAT AND COWL

http://www.makersmercantile.com/blog/hikoo-zumie-h…

Video with text: Skacel – the creator and distributor of Hikoo and the North American distributor of Addi (Made in Germany) brings you the Zumie by Hikoo.

Katie: I’m gonna show you how to knit the Zumie hat and Cowl depending on which one you’re using. You can use a 16-inch circular or 24, and I’m gonna show you the cast on right now. You can start with a slip knot, or you can start with a just dripping it over the needle like this and doing a long-term cast on. You wanna make sure to cast on nice and loosely, and you’re gonna cast on 48 stitches for the hat or 72 for the cowl.

Okay, I’m ready to join in the rounds and I wanna make sure that my stitches are not twisted. So make sure that all those little purl bumps are facing down and join in the rounds. You could place some marker here that indicate the beginning of the round but I usually just use the tail for the first few rounds. This little yarn end right here will work as a marker. So bring the ends together and join.

My first stitch is actually a purl, so I’m doing a purl, and I always work on the first stitch a little tightly just to make sure that there’s no spling right there. So I’m purling two, and then I’m going to knit one, and I’m gonna wrap twice around the needle before drawing through and getting it off. So that’s just gonna give us a little extra length to make the longer the stitch that we need for the slip-stitch-ribbing-stitch pattern. Roll two, and then knit one. If I’m a continental knitter I’m going to do the same thing. So, I’ll purl twice, knit the stitch wrapping the yarn twice around the needle. Roll two, and knit one. So, just continue that until you reach the other side of the round.

I’m almost done with this round, I’m gonna work my last double wrap stitch. Pull through, purl, and end with a knit one. So I’m ready to work round 2 of the stitch pattern: the slip stitch-ribbing has you purl two, and then when you get to that first wrap stitch, you slip with yarn back, slip the stitch and the extra wrap is just gonna drop right off, so that stitch is kinda look a lot larger than the other knit stitch that you have which is right here. This is a normal one so you’ll only wrap once, so you’re knitting that as normal. And then purling, and slip this, drop the extra, and pull it.

With that does is when you slip them for the next couple of rounds, they’re gonna have enough yarn to not pull off the fabric and distort it, and it just creates this very dramatic, giant loop stitch that looks kinda like a chain link. Really nice in this big book I’m using here. Alright, this has magically changed color and I’m gonna show you how to finish the hat and basically what you do is you do a three little bind up, you just make sure that your stitches are evenly split over two needles, if you have a circular, you can pension and pull out the extra cables, serve like a magic loop. And I’m gonna bind off in pattern of just finished working row four of the pattern. So I have the extra slip stitch here, the longer one, and I’m just gonna knit those on this round, not dong that extra wrap so, binding up basically in a rib. So, to work with a little bind up, you hold the needles in parallel like this, and you have a spare needle, doesn’t really matter what size it is but it can be, it should be closed to the size of what you’re working with.

Uhm, so I’m gonna purl this first stitch going through the back needle, and on the front needle, purling those one at a time and sort it at the same time, and slipping it off. I know that doesn’t make much sense but, so that’s one, cut it off the needle. Now the next stitch is a purl so I’m gonna actually come in through the back on the back needle, and go towards the front, purl that stitch to the front one, and then the back one. You can kinda do it in one-full swoop, but if you’re just doing this for the first time, you might wanna do them separately. Then I’m gonna bind these stitches off, in a normal manner.

So I have the back stitch coming up and over the first stitch. Just sort of knit frogging over it. Then I have my longer knit stitch, I’m gonna knit that, but I’m not wrapping twice this time, I’m just knitting it as normal. The back stitch and the front one will stitch it off the needle and then I’m gonna rib from the back stitch over the front. You wanna make sure that you do this rather loosely , especially if you’re working with the cowl, you don’t want this to pull . For the hat it doesn’t matter as much but just try to work these in even tension not pulling it too tightly. Keep it neat but don’t hold it too tight. So just continue until you bound off all the stitches this way. Remembering to work in pattern just keep a ___ knitter.

So I’m gonna bind off my last few stitches, and last is in it so I’m knitting these together and, pulling up the big loop like this. Snip the yarn. You’ll only need about, I’ll say you don’t really even need this much, just about 12 inches. Now that my stitches are all bound up, I have a tail here, I’m going to bring it over to the opposite side, I’m gonna pinch these two ends together, and I’m gonna pull this yarn though this corner to fasten the hat together. This is optional. You can wear it just like this little look like, little catty’s wearing it, it’s kind of cute. Or, you can make it into a hat. You can dread this on a tapestry or you can use a crochet hook. So pull the arm through, and you just do that several times, to make sure their attached. When you feel confident that it’s secure you can weave the rest of your yarn end.

You can put a tassel or a pompom here, or you can wear it just like so. It basically falls to the back like that and looks like a little hunter’s cap. You just wanna make sure that your hat’s tall enough to fit over your head ‘cause this does take a bit of fabric. So, but what it makes it nice, you don’t have to do any shaping. It’s nice and easy. So there you go, that’s your finished hat. If you don’t like the way this looks fastened on the outside, it sorts of make a little heart which is kinda cute. You can actually fasten it on the inside. You just want to turn your hat inside out before you sew those ends together, and it creates a little bulk on the inside of the hat, but if you knitted it tall enough, it’s going to be fine.

This is my finished hat, and I still have plenty of yarn left over to knit . I can do a pompom, I can do a tassel. If you had two colors you could actually switch with a friend and then put a little stripe in or cast on with a different color or shade. That would be really fun. If you’re knitting the cowl, you just cast on more stitches and you’re knitting ‘til the almost side of yarn, making sure you leave enough for your bind-off, and you want to make sure that your bind-off is nice and loose. And make sure to bind-off in pattern. Here we have a bind-off that stand a little bit too firmly so draws in quite a bit more. It’s still really nice, it’s just knitted to a tighter gauge with a tighter bind-off, so that’s more close to the neck. Uhm, It’s up to you what you like to do and have fun!

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Fridays with Franklin – Adventure on the Floor, Part Three

fwf-logo-v1Adventure on the Floor, Conclusion

For an introduction to this ongoing series, click here.

For the first part of this adventure, click here.

When last we met, I was considering giving up all fiber arts forever after four bloody rounds with a vintage pattern from this booklet…

On the Floor Conclusion 1

…which purports to instruct one in the method for making rugs and mats from crochet-covered clothesline.

It did not, as you know, go well.

The technique, previously outlined in detail, is simple and easily mastered. The shaping of the oval, however, could most kindly be described as an exercise in surrealism.

After giving the pattern every opportunity to prove itself, I tossed it aside. That it landed in the fireplace on top of a burning log is no coincidence.

All I needed to do was crochet an oval. I suspected that possibly–just possibly–I was not the first person in history to have this in mind.

Let’s Make An Oval

Indeed. I’d only typed “C-R-O-C-H-E-T-O-V” when Google vomited a cascade of related articles, most offering close variations on the same formula.

In a nutshell:

  1. Determine the desired length of your straight sides. This length will remain constant.

On the Floor Conclusion 2

2. Create a chain stitch “spine” of this length as a foundation

On the Floor Conclusion 2

3. Work your increases at the ends of this spine.

 

On the Floor Conclusion 3

4. The rate of increase is either three or six stitches per end, regularly spaced.

On the Floor Conclusion 4

5. Increase in every round at these three (or six) points. Note that the number of stitches between the increases will increase by one each time.

On the Floor Conclusion 6

That’s it.

Would it work for the rug?

It Worked for the Rug

Yep. I see no point in keeping you in suspense. You’ve suffered enough.

Experienced crochet types can probably sit down and wing it. Newbies might like to follow this rambling recipe.

You’ll need:

42 yards (38.5m) of clothesline (more, if you want a larger rug)

two skeins Hikoo Simpliworsted(more, if you want a larger rug)

locking-ring stitch markers (minimum of 4)

1 crochet hook, size 3.5mm

Do this:

Build the Foundation

  1. Work 67 chain stitches as the central spine of the rug. If, like me, you are a new crocheter who has trouble keeping count, shove a stitch marker into every tenth stitch.

On the Floor Conclusion 7

Remove them after you’re sure you have the proper number in your chain.

NOTA BENE: From this point, absolutely all stitches will be worked over clothesline as described in Part One. You will be looking at the wrong side (bottom) of the rug as you work.

Work Round 1

  1. Beginning with second chain from hook, 1 single crochet into the left edge of each chain stitch to within 1 chain from end. (Review this installment for more information.)
  2. Place marker by slipping it around the neck of the stitch you’ve just made. (That’s how you’ll place all markers in this piece.)

On the Floor Conclusion 8

3. First increase! Woooo! Single crochet 6 into the last chain. Go on, shove ’em all in there. (Savor the moment. This is as exciting as it gets.)

4. Still with the wrong side facing you, single crochet 65 into the right edge of the foundation chain stitches, placing markers around the necks of the first and last of these.

5. Single crochet 6 into the last chain stitch.

Get Ready for Rounds 2 and Higher

As discussed in our last installment, from this point you’ll work stitches over the clothesline and into the hole under both threads of the stitch in the round below.

On the Floor Conclusion 9

To increase, work 2 single crochet into the hole in question.

When beginning Round 2, place a marker around the neck of the first stitch immediately after you work it. This marker will indicate the beginning of your rounds, so I like to make sure it differs in appearance from the other three markers. On my rug, the beginning-of-round marker was green; the others were orange.

You’ll have four markers in place, and your increases will occur between these markers on every round.

Work Round 2

Single crochet 1 into every stitch up to and including next marker. This is your first straight side.

You’ll be at the first place where you increased six in the previous round.

(Increase 1, single crochet 1) up to next marker. You’ll have an increase of six stitches between the two markers at this end of your rug.

Beginning with the next marked stitch, single crochet 1 in every stitch up to and including next marker.

(Increase 1, single crochet 1) up to next marker–which you’ll find is the beginning-of-round marker. This end of your rug will have increased by six stitches.

You’re off to a fine start. The rest will be more of the same.

All Subsequent Rounds

Along your straight edges, 1 single crochet into every stitch. Your straight edges will not increase.

Between the markers at each rounded end, work 6 evenly-spaced single increases in every round. The distance between the increases will grow by 1 in every round.

For example:

Round Three: (Increase 1, single crochet 1) between the markers.

Round Four: (Increase 1, single crochet 2) between the markers.

Round Five: (Increase 1, single crochet 3) between the markers.

And so forth, until your rug has as many rounds as you require, or until you run out of either yarn or clothesline.

Finishing

Fasten off your yarn, and cut the loose ends of your clothesline near the crochet.

On the Floor Conclusion 10

It seems like there should be more to it, but there isn’t.

The Finished Rug

I declare, I am quite pleased with it. Cheerful, but stout and heavy enough to be useful–like the braided rag rugs that inspired me to give this technique a try.

On the Floor Conclusion 11

The semi-solid HiKoo Simpliworsted (this is colorway 665) shows off beautifully, making occasional shadowy rings of slightly lighter and darker blue.

On the Floor Conclusion 12

The only thing I’m not thrilled with is the size. I used the entire length of my clothesline. Even so, the dimensions are a slightly stingy 23 inches (58.5cm) long by 10.5 inches (26.5cm) wide. To serve as a doormat, it could use another two inches of width–which would mean adding only another three rounds.

I’d need to join in more clothesline, and that’s not difficult. Just place the new length on the work where needed, with about inch of excess hanging on the wrong side. Work on. When you’re finished, trim the excess at the beginning and end.

The only other thing to keep in mind is that the larger your rug gets, the heavier it gets. This rapidly becomes a piece that’ll hurt your wrists and back if you try to lug it around like a doily. After about ten rounds, support it on a table.

Final Thoughts for Further Rugging

When I picked up the vintage booklet, this idea of crocheting a rug over clothesline was, to me, entirely unfamiliar. As this adventure began to unfurl, I was immensely pleased to hear from several “Fridays with Franklin” readers who knew it well, and kindly wrote to me about their own experiences.

The practice was apparently quite common in the days when most households hung laundry to dry, and most clotheslines were pure cotton that frayed, discolored, and weakened fairly quickly. When it could no longer support socks and underwear, was it thrown out? No! It became a rug. Wonderfully thrifty and sensible.

As our throwaway culture gradually, painfully begins to rediscover the necessity of making things last, I hope we’ll see more and more techniques like this creep back into the spotlight. I know I’ll be doing this again.

Just not with Kenny’s pattern. Kenny can go to hell.

(The next adventure begins in two weeks.)

Tools and Materials Appearing in This Issue

Hikoo Simpliworsted: 55% Merino Superwash, 28% Acrylic, 17% Nylon; 140 yd per 100g skein. Colors: 611 (gray/light blue) and 665 (blue).

AddiColours Crochet Hook (from set of nine color-coded, comfort grip hooks), size 3.5 mm.

Wellington Light Load Economy Clothesline: Nylon core, braided cotton exterior; 42 yards.

About Franklin Habit

Designer, teacher, author and illustrator Franklin Habit is the author of It Itches: A Stash of Knitting Cartoons (Interweave Press, 2008) and proprietor of The Panopticon, one of the most popular knitting blogs on the Internet. On an average day, upwards of 2,500 readers worldwide drop in for a mix of essays, cartoons, and the continuing adventures of Dolores the Sheep.

Franklin’s varied experience in the fiber world includes contributions of writing and design to Vogue Knitting, Yarn Market News, Interweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, PieceWork, Twist Collective; and a regular columns and cartoons for Knitty.com, PLY Magazine, Lion Brand Yarns, and Skacel Collection. Many of his independently published designs are available via Ravelry.com.

He travels constantly to teach knitters at shops and guilds across the country and internationally; and has been a popular member of the faculties of such festivals as Vogue Knitting Live!, STITCHES Events, Squam Arts Workshops, Sock Summit, and the Madrona Fiber Arts Winter Retreat.

Franklin lives in Chicago, Illinois, cohabiting shamelessly with 15,000 books, a Schacht spinning wheel, two looms, and a colony of yarn that multiplies whenever his back is turned.